Thursday, June 23, 2011
Santa Fiora
Images: The Everything Store; SL and JL at the Abbey; The Abbey; The Tower at Radicofani; The View from thge Tower
First we reconnoiter. We head to the Piazza Garibaldi and start out to ask for a map and advice on visiting Abbadia San Salvatore. We have yet to meet anyone in Santa Fiori who speaks any English, so I put on my best Italiano accent and dive in...
“Buonjourno, oggi vorreimo andare a Abbadia San Salvatore. Avete una carta geographica, per favore?” The lady in the tourist office looks at me, allows me to stumble on a bit more, then says, “Righto, then, what you'll be after is a spot of advice on which towns to see, and which are not worth the bother...” in the thickest Yorkshire accent imaginable.
She procedes to tell us that Radicofani is a must see if we are going to Abbadia San Salvatore, and that it has the highest tower in Tuscany, with views for miles around.
We get to Abbadia San Salvatore, worried that the enoteca and curio shoppe that was so highly recommended would be closed, to find that it is the only store open. Entering it is a bit like entering Willie Wonka's I imagine. It is absolutely crammed with wines, beers, liqueurs, cheeses, salamis, crafts, antiques, dolls, clocks, ceramics, oils, jams and vinegars. The woman who runs it is absolutely charming, looks like a Mennonite, talks like Ted Baxter's wife on the Lou Grant show, and sells like Lee Iococca.
She entertains us with the provenance of everything that we are about to taste, proudly pointing out that all the sausages and cheeses are made on her farm, that her father personally pressed the olive oil, and that the chestnut beer is only made on Monte Amiata. At least three times I said, “Basta cosi”, which I thought meant, “That's enough”, but apparently means, “I want to sample some more wine, cheese, grappa, jam and bread, talk awhile and visit your farm.”
Leaving Abbadia San Salvatore with our Fiat full of wines, beers, liqueurs, cheeses, salamis, ceramics, oils, jams and vinegars, we headed to Radicofani.
Radicofani is another medieval town with narrow streets adorned with potted plants, and beautiful balconies teeming with flowers. The high point (literally) was the tower of the old castello. SL and I climbed the 129 narrow steps to the top to see spectacular views of the Tuscan hillsides.
We then headed home for our Bistecca Fiorentina and Vino Toscana.
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