Dubrovnik

We arrived in Dubrovnik after passing through Bosnia-Herzegovina, then back into Croatia. Border guards have not asked us one question yet in the trip (touch wood!), they just stamp our passports and off we go. We finally found our B and B and looked in dismay at the 129 stone steps leading up to it, then looked back at our luggage. Steps were to be a constant theme in Dubrovnik!

Dubrovnik is among the 10 best preserved medieval walled cities in the world, and is on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. Although it was demilitarized in the 1970s to protect it from war, in 1991, after the breakup of Yugoslavia, it was besieged by the Serb and Montenegrin soldiers for seven months and suffered significant damage from shelling. The heaviest artillery attack was on December 6 with 19 people killed and 60 wounded. A total of 117 civilians were killed.

After getting settled, we head off to the walled “Old Town” walked down from our B and B, and then descended another couple of hundreds of steps to sea level to explore the town. (A few years ago a research team armed with cameras and recording devices spent time counting all the steps. They discovered there are a grand total of 4,343 steps within the perimeter of the wall.) The day was overcast, and by the time we had decided to stop for lunch, the skies were threatening. We had been convinced by a barker to try a Mexican restaurant, where I had fun teaching the Croatian waiters some Spanish phrases. No sooner had we sat down than it began to POUR rain. Although we were all getting soaked even under the awnings, we all had a good laugh about it. It rained so hard that it created sink holes in some of the main streets where the underpinnings of asphalt roads had been washed away.

The city boasts of many old buildings, such as the Arboretum Trsteno, the oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to before 1492. Also, the third oldest European pharmacy is located in the city, which dates back to 1317 (and is the only one still in operation today). The architecture is stunning, and the back streets evoke the spirit of "Game of Thrones"  (Filmed here in Dubrovnik!)

That night, exhausted from the travel and the hundreds of steps back up out of Old Town and up to our B and B, we decided that I should cook dinner in our tiny kitchen. My good friend J. B. Harrison often posts heartfelt thoughts on Facebook about appreciating family and friends, and of course, those things always are near and dear to us, but I have to say that travel has taught me also to appreciate many things that we sometimes might take for granted – like cooking in a kitchen that is larger than 12 inches by four feet. Nevertheless, I acquitted myself adequately by cheffing up a dinner of chicken in a cream sauce with garlic, onion, mushrooms, wine, steak spice, milk – pronounced by my bride to be delicious.

Next day we braved the steps again to walk on top of the city walls. The walls have a grand total of 1,080 steps which does include the three entrances. The views were well worth it.

In the bay of Dubrovnik is the 72-hectare wooded island of Lokrum, where according to legend, Richard the Lionheart was cast ashore after being shipwrecked in 1192. On our last day, we took the boat ride to the island where we had a pleasant hike with peacocks wandering across our path. On our travel day to Athens/Piraeus, we decided to carry all our bags down the steps and walk the 2 km to the bus station with our new-found super-legs!

Some of the MANY steps!

A Windblown Lorraine on the Walls

Approaching Dubrovnik by Sea

Beautiful Peacocks on Lokrum

Hvar Island, Jelsa and Havar Town

Hvar
We took the ferry across to Hvar from Drvenik on a very busy Saturday afternoon. By the time we arrived at the ferry landing, the line of cars, trucks and campers stretched for what seemed like miles. When a ferry arrived and unloaded, then loaded, the line seemed to barely move. We waited for three more ferries and two hours before we were able to load, then cross the 35 minute trip to Hvar Island.

Hvar, the island in Adriatic Sea , is the longest and the sunniest Croatian island and one of the most beautiful islands in the world. It is a part of the central Dalmatian archipelago with the area of 299.6 sq km. The road we travelled on would rival the “Tail of the Dragon” the infamous motorcycle route in Deal's Gap, South Carolina. The 11-mile stretch of the Dragon in Tennessee boasts some 318 curves. The Dragon's sharpest curves have names like Copperhead Corner, Hog Pen Bend, and Wheelie Hell. Our stretch of road to our little village of Jelsa was only 52 km long, but it took us 75 minutes, which means we averaged about 40 km/hour or 24 mph for our American friends. The scenery was breathtaking, with fabulous views of mountains, sparkling seas, olive trees, lavender, grapevines, rock walls, and purple bougainvilla.

The rock walls, built with an ancient technique called dry construction because it uses no mortar, were a bit of a mystery as they seemed to follow no logic or pattern, sometimes stretching off into the mountainous distance, sometimes dividing out small parcels of land, sometimes seeming to be the basis for some long-disused hut or small building. It turns out that as early as the 4th century, farmers picked the rocks out of the stony ground to create small areas for growing olive trees, and then stacked them to form walls that demarcated ownership. In some cases, the walls were strategically placed to provide shelter for sheep or goats. Over time, these walls grew to stretch randomly for kilometers.

Our first dinner in Jelsa was at Konaba Nono, steak for me and seafood risotto for Sweet Lorraine. It was good enough to convince us to make a reservation for the lamb dinner that required 24 hours notice to prepare. It did not disappoint, as the large cast iron pan was steaming with delicious lamb, garlic, onions, tomatoes, potatoes and broth. It was a big meal, but I think we did it justice.

Later, we met a friend of Christina Gelinas' named Bekim who has opened a terrific little ice-cream and dessert cafe. When we told him we were friends with Christina, he treated us like family, and we sat down for a delcious dessert and Croatian liquor, none of which we were allowed to pay for.

The next day we took a scooter and rode to Hvar Town for a lunch of calamari and salad by the sea. Imposing fortifications stand guard over a field of orange rooftops that slope down to the crystal blue waters. The remains of walls built by a long list of invaders descend towards the wide promenade edging the brilliant blue sea and the quaint fishing harbor. Marble streets reveal one of the largest squares in Dalmatia, Trg Sveti Stjepana as well as the prized Cathedral of St. Stjepan and the Renaissance theatre.

 The Town Square in Hvar is among the most beautiful and the largest in Croatia, but we spent little time there as we wandered the back streets, stumbling upon tiny little courtyard cafes and bars, all nestled in nooks and crannies between the ancient stone walls. Bougainvilla, lemon and orange trees wove their way up between the tables to create a fantasy setting. We set out for Dubrovnik the next day and just missed the ferry as it was pulling away, so we took the time to do our power-walking along the sea, returning an hour later to catch the ferry back across to mainland Croatia.

Bougainvilla above our Room

Selfie-stick Capture of the Back Alleys of Hvar Town

Beautiful Main Square in Hvar Town

Dry Construction Stone Walls

Jelsa, our Home City on Hvar

Omis

OMIS Our first glimpse of Omis in Croatia revealed its not so secret heritage. The high cliffs surrounding the rivers and inlets would have been perfect for pirates to hide and, if threatened, to easily defend.

Omis is a small Central Dalmatian town and harbour situated in the mouth of the Cetina river, surrounded with massive gorges. Omis' pirate history, a long, turbulent, proud era of retaliation, courage and strength gives the town its notoriety, and evidence can be found on every corner. Fortresses, churches, lookout towers and defensive walls still stand as proud reminders of the power and might of the infamous Omis pirates. Gothis, renaissance and early baroque architecture can be seen in the Mirabela Fort, Fortica Fort, the Church of St. Mihovil, the Fransican convent, St. Peter's Church and many others. We spent many hours wandering the tiny back alleys with their worn cobbletstone streets (no cars) and their many cafes and bars.

We spent two days and nights in Omis, highlighted by a serene river cruise up the Cetina. On the way upstream I chatted with our captain about basketball and Nikola Tesla, the famous Croatian, and on the way back he looked at me and said, “Do you want to drive?” Of course I said yes, and to the wary looks of our 25 passengers, took the helm as our pilot relaxed on the bow and took in the beautiful day!

Dinner at Konoba Joskan was so good the first night that we returned for the second night to dine on octopus salad, penne gorgonzola, grilled lamb, grilled vegetables, and fried potatoes. We have found Croatian restaurants to be very reasonable, as long as you stay away from the bottled water ($5.00) and the “First Grade” fish ($92.00). For example, our lamb dinner described above, with a beer, and a litre of house wine, tax and tip included, was 277 Kuna (about $54.00).

The only note of concern is that our car – a beautiful Renault – is not running as smoothly as it once was. (and yes, Brian Layfield, I know it is a diesel, and that's what I filled it with!) We are crossing our fingers and hoping it will get us to the island of Hvar, and then to Dubrovnik, before we turn it back in and fly to Greece.

Our first glimpse of Omis - home of the Pirates!

Fortifications still stand guard.

Many Hours Strolling the Back Alleys

View from our River Cruise

Yes, I Bought a Selfie Stick!

Captain John!!!

Zadar

He looked directly into my eyes and said, “Tell me what is the deepest desire in your heart.” Sweet Lorraine and I had been touring the old town of Zadar for hours and had decided to have a light appetizer and a drink before dinner. We were sitting in a charming little cafe with seats right on the street, so we were overlooking the crowds strolling along the gleaming white stone, polished to a sheen by the passage of millions of feet over the centuries.

 “Um, sorry, I am not sure exactly what you mean?” I responded to our waiter, a very nice man who had been friendly and jovial. “In the deepest part of your heart, what is it you wish for?” our waiter repeated. I looked to SL for help or guidance. She was neither. 

“Well, I guess we love to travel and so far we have been lucky enough to see some beautiful places and meet wonderful people. We have spent three months in Mexico...”. I continued in this vein for about 5 minutes while he listened intently, and when I paused he clarified, in his own way, that his shift was ending and that he needed to know if our hearts desired any wish from the bar, because he needed to close our tab. SL and I almost cried with embarrassed laughter, and then I said that my deepest wish from the bar was to end hunger and bring about world peace, at which point he understood what was so funny and joined in the merriment. 

Driving in to Zadar we were concerned as the streets andsurroundings got more and more industrial, but we needn't have worried. Our B and B – Guesthouse Pegla was ideally situated steps away from the Old Town. A high wall surrounds Zadar on the harbour side, built in the 16th century by the Venetians. A Venetian lion still stands guard at the entrance gate.

The city has a very understated sense of history: You turn the corner and there is an ancient Roman column or a cornice lying in a patch of grass, stones with thousand year-old carvings of gods and deities, presented unceremoniously, as if to say, “History? Yeah, we rock that, no big deal...”

 Unfortunately, Allied bombing destroyed much of the historic centre which was rebuilt after the war only to suffer more attacks by Yugoslav forces in 1991, but you can still admire the defensive walls that protect the city on three sides. They were built first by the Venetians in the 16th century as a defense against the Turks, then reinforced at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century. 

 At night, we walked along the obala Kresimira IV, the western quay. We ate at Konoba Toromonto, situated along the tree lined waterfront promenade. It was here that Alfred Hitchcock once remarked that Zadar's sunsets were among the world's finest, and we would second that opinion. 

At the end of the Western Quay is Zadar's most unusual feature, the Sea Organ. This unusual instrument is powered by the wind and the sea. When the sea pushes air through the whistles, a series of melancholy chords are played, with the sound emerging through the perforated stone stairs. You have to hear it to believe it! 

Next to the Sea Organ is the Sun Salutation. This circle of glass collects the sun's rays by day, stores the energy, and emits it as a flickering light show after dark. Extra energy is used to power the lights along the waterfront. 

On our first night, we stayed up to catch a free open-air concert featuring a number of acts, including Croatian folk singers and a rock/blues duo from Texas. 

The history, architecture, food, ambience and mystery of Zadar made it one of our favourite spots so far.

Zadar Old Town Centre

Centuries of History standing Uncelebrated.

The Scene of our Free Concert.  An 11th Century Piazza. 

Sunset in Zadar

Journey to Zadar, and Smiljian Home of Tesla

Leaving Plitvice for the beautiful drive through the Croatian countryside to Zadar, motivated by my friend Brian Layfield's dedication to renewable, sustainable energy solutions (he also drives a Tesla!) we decided to stop at the childhood home of Nikola Tesla (1856-1943), a brilliant scientist and engineer who earned more than 700 patents. He is most famous for developing alternating current, but his work also led to advances in wireless communications, lasers, x-rays, radar, lighting, robotics, and much more. The memorial to his career included a recreation of his house, a documentary of his life, and demonstrations of his work.

“Nikola Tesla was born at the stroke of midnight on June 28, 1856, in the village of Smiljian near Belgrade, in what is now Croatia, during a horrible electrical storm. The midwife said that he would be ‘a child of the storm.’ His mother replied, ‘No- of light.’ Tesla’s strange, controversial and incredible life as one of the world’s greatest inventors fulfilled both of their prophetic statements.”

 When Tesla was 5, he jumped off the roof of his house holding an umbrella to see if he could fly. He was badly hurt and some people theorize that he sustained a brain injury which led to the opening of different neural pathways that explain his genius, or created a form of epilepsy through which he envisioned some of his greatest works during seizures. Certainly his older brother was a genius, and when he was killed by the family horse by accident, Nikola was devastated and it is posited that he spent the rest of his life dedicated to work honouring his brother.

Tesla was born in Croatia (then Serbia) but emigrated to the U.S. as a young man, where he eventually became a naturalized citizen. Besides Edison, who later became his bitter rival, Tesla often worked with inventor George Westinghouse. In 1893, the pair demonstrated their advances in lighting and motors in the "White City" at the Chicago World's Fair. In 1895, Tesla and Westinghouse developed the world's first hydroelectric power plant, at Niagara Falls.

 Tesla did what he did for the betterment of humanity, and as a result was often too broke to finance his research. Tesla claimed to have required only two hours of sleep a night, although he occasionally napped. He loathed jewelry and round objects and wouldn't touch hair. He was obsessed with the number three and polished every dining implement he used to perfection, using 18 napkins.

 Among his many inventions were: Alternating Current, flourescent and neon lights,X-rays, radio (years before Marconi!), remote control, the electric motor, robotics, the laser, and wireless communications.

My biggest thrill came when Sweet Lorraine and I stood alone in total darkness in a room containing a Tesla coil, holding flourescent light tubes in our hands. When the coil was switched on, the room was filled with lightning, and our tubes glowed as if plugged in, proving Tesla's claim that he could transmit electrical energy wirelessly. He also succeeded in frightening me half to death!

Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of Tesla's genius is that he never made sketches or plans of his initial ideas, but instead was able to design and test models in his head, never resulting to trial and error, or experimentation, only putting his final design down on paper. When asked why he expected these untested final designs to work, he replied, “Why shouldn't they?”

Tesla did all his calculations and test designs in his head. 

Tesla coil!

The Croatian Countryside is Beautiful

Starting Down the Mountains to Zadar!

Plitvice Lakes Croatia

Plitvice Lakes Croatia

 “Is it as beautiful as Niagara Falls?”, my new-found friend from the Netherlands asked me. “It is different, “ I replied, “Just as my wife and a dramatic sunset can both be beautiful.” He nodded in understanding. “Just as a Harley Davidson and a Vespa scooter can both be beautiful.” He nodded again, a bit more slowly. “Just as a 1959 Sunburst Gibson Les Paul..., OK, sorry, the Plitvice Lakes National Park and its waterfalls are beautful and graceful, Niagara Falls is beautiful in its power and majesty.”

Plitvice Lakes National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Centre. The forests are home to a series of lakes, streams and channels which flow through the limestone and chalk to carve out a chain of some of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world.

Sweet Lorraine and I drove from Rijeka to our present B and B in Koranica. Croatia, just outside of Plitvice Lakes. The view from our balcony is stunning, and our hostess is very gracious and welcoming. (She is currently drying our laundry!) Today we rose early and made the 15 minute drive to Plitvice Lakes)

Last night we walked to town and had roast pork, which the area is famous for – barbequing a whole pig over a spit from the wee hours of the morning till it is served up on your plate. For some reason, I was stricken by a nasty case of Montezuma's Revenge, which seems a bit unfair as I was Montezuma's guest for 3 months and steered clear of any offence that might incur his wrath or revenge. To be clear, I caught the bug BEFORE eating the roast pig.

 All is well now, Craotian beer can do wonders to set your stomach straight.

 I have included several pictures of the waterfalls, but Ansel Adams I ain't and I didn't want to take credit for something I didn't do, so if you want to see some stunning pics, go to the following website where Jack Brauer has taken a break from filming the next series of 24, to post some truly incredible work.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/article-2035482/The-beautifuls-waterfalls-world-Photographs-capture-Croatias-Plitvice-Lakes.html

Sweet Lorraine and I enjoying the view in Rovinj

The View from our B and B House Mara

The "BIG" waterfall in Plitvice

Look carefully, those are all little waterfalls!

The water cascades into crystalline lakes.

Notice the stylish look I am sporting - our tickets were in that sweater,
Lorraine is supposed to look after the tickets.

Venice and Rijeka

Our original itinerary had us landing in Turkey, but with the difficulties there, we changed our initial flight to land in Venice. Smart move, because it gave us a bonus night in the city we love so much. Another smart move was to pay the porter to hump our bags to our hotel, because we had no idea where it was, and the bags weighed a total of over 200 pounds up and down the ponti that span each canal. Exhausted as we were, we still managed a terrific fish dinner right beside the water and were able to get up at 5:30 AM to walk some of our 23,000 steps that day. (if you don't believe me, ask my pedometer!) If you ever get the chance, try to see Venice before the city wakes up, before the hucksters and hawkers get set up to prey on the tourists, before even the fruit vendors get organized, and most important of all, before Piazza San Marco is blemished by even one sight-seer. Absolutely majestic! Later that day, off by train and bus to Croatia. I don't know why we have not ventured before to any of the Slavic nations, but Croatia is incredibly beautiful. We arrived at our “botel” a converted ship re-purposed as a hotel – complete with a bar, dance club and restaurant – and proceeded to explore Rijeka. The next day we picked up our rental car and were either lucky or smart enough to ask that, if we were going to Slovenia, would we need Euros? Passports? Yes to both. (we are using Kuna in Croatia). After braving the traffic in downtown Rijeka and figuring out the cruise control, the GPS and the highway signs, we set out for the world-famous caves in Postojna, Slovenia. The caves are probably the best-know in the world, and for good reason. The tour starts off with a ten minute train ride through spectacular chambers and halls of stalagmites and stalactites, dramatically lit to good effect. My friend and colleague Aaron Moffatt recommended these as a must-see: I owe him a beer for that! You are then led on a one hour walking tour through the some of the most beautiful displays that Mom Nature has created. The caves themselves are principally limestone, which is very porous, and water easily takes its scalpel to chisel out fantastic formations. The different stalactites are created as the water volume or rate changes, and as it encounters different minerals in the caves. The presence of iron, for instance will imbue a stalactite with reddish hues. Some stalactites are called spaghetti stalactites, because they are long and thin, looking like, you guessed it, spaghetti. Others resemble billowing sheets, sails or curtains, from which they take their name. When stalactites drip on to the floor, they form pillars or stalagmites. My imagination conjured up images of ice cream cones, the tower of Pisa, mushrooms, ogres, all in a setting that J.R.R would have been proud of. I expected an orc, a goblin a dwarf, or a Hobbit to pop up around any corner. I hope that I am not jaded, but nor am I easily impressed, but I sincerely believe that this was one of the most incredibly stunning visual experiences I have ever had.

San Marco Square before the Crowds

Venetian Fruit Stand

The Caves!

Ice Cream Cone Stalagmite

Pipe Organ?

Adventure 2015!

After returning from three months in Mexico, we barely had two months to get ready for our next big safari – four months in Europe!  Our itinerary includes Croatia, Greece (Hydra and our favourite island Sifnos), Spain, Morocco (Africa!), Portugal, Gibraltar, France, and Italy where our daughter Melissa, son Geoffrey, and our darling grandchildren – Mia, Cadence and Kinghston  join us for two weeks.  We had originally planned to land in Turkey and spend some time there, but the refugee situation and the specter of ISIS changed our minds.

So we have spent the last two months planning and preparing, with Sweet Lorraine doing most of the work.  She has spent literally hundreds of hours on the computer, comparing reviews, getting prices, scoping out the best hikes and scenic spots. I went online to buy a new “Travelcaster” as my Telecoustic was broken in Mexico.  This one is actually a “Stratacoustic”.  They are made by Fender and feature a carbon-fibre body with a bolt-on neck, which is critical as I have to take the neck off to pack it in the suitcase.

 Yesterday we packed, enjoying our first use of our brand new upgraded luggage. Alas, the neck of the new Travelcaster would not fit so we were grateful that we had not yet donated our old luggage, but disappointed that we could not now make use of our new co-ordinated set.  (“One of these things is not like the other…”)

Tomorrow we leave for Venice, where  we stay the night (to return later in the trip) and then we are off by train to Croatia!

The new "Travelcaster"  my Stratacoustic.

The Travelcaster with the neck off ready to pack.

Starting to pack  hiking gear and all.

I printed off a month of my beloved Cryptic puzzles for the journey.

There were lists, and lists of lists to get ready!