Assisi

Taking a break from the idyllic farm life in Santa Fiora, we decided to take our own little pilgrimage to the ancient town of Assisi, remembered for its breathtakingly beautiful architecture, and forever linked with St. Francis, one of the patron saints of Italy. As we drove through the Tuscan countryside, the skies lowered and looked ever more threatening as we neared our destination, and we feared our visit might be a short, wet one. The winding roads and sharp cutbacks on the mountains did not agree with Melissa's stomach, so when we arrived, I went out in the rain to find some food and drink that we could all relax with before planning our evening. Fortified and recuperated, Lorraine and I went off on discovery while Miss had a short rest.

The town is the destination of many pilgrimages and there were no shortage of nuns, priests and novitiates in every piazza and alleyway. The cobbled streets thrummed with the sound of guitars and young voices paying homage to the gentle saint who founded the Franciscan Order. St. Francis was a lover of nature and frescoes of him preaching to the birds adorn many walls.

Unfortunately, Assisi was hit by two major earthquakes that wreaked damage on the beautiful town in 1997. A heroic restoration allowed the Basilica di San Francesco, St. Francis' namesake and the major attraction, to reopen in 1999 and it was designated a World Heritage Site in 2000. Lorraine and I marvelled at the two medieval castles. The larger, called Rocca Maggiore, (1367), was truly intimidating. Every corner seemed to unveil another beautiful surprise: The Temple of Minerva, the Roman amphitheatre built in the early 1st century AD, the Piazza del Comune ("Communal Square"), with the Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo (mid-13th century), and The abbey of St. Benedict, founded in the 10th century on the Monte Subasio.

 That night, we all strolled through the town and sat at a cafe to people-watch. Lorraine had a glass of wine and Melissa and I had a Peroni – one of the national beers. Our bill was placed discreetly on the table, but, enjoying ourselves as we were, we decided to have another round before dinner, and our bill magically multiplied and the price per drink had increased! Not just the new drinks, but the ones we had before! It was quite a challenge to my uncultured Italian to argue for this to be corrected, but, I am proud to say, we won the day and paid the old bill.

That night we found a quaint old restaurant in a tiny alleyway lit by candles placed at the side of the street. The outdoor tables took up most of the room in the alley, and we began to enjoy our antipasto, followed by a lamb pasta, a breast of hen, and spaghetti carbonara, accompanied by a delicious, and inexpensive vino da casa. We were just commenting on how quiet and rustic the street was when a car started down the alley. We laughed and mocked the driver thinking he was actually going to make it, when he started his own demolition derby drive. People stood up, flattened themselves against the walls and watched as his mirrors attempted to clear the tables of any outstanding wine bottles or glasses, and then he was through, literally scraping both mirrors on each side of the alley!

The next day we all made the very energetic hike through the town to the Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi (St. Francis). The Franciscan monastery, il Sacro Convento, and the lower and upper church of St Francis were begun in 1228, after his canonization and completed in 1253. We were not too tired to appreciate the incredible architecture and stained glass that paid homage to the much beloved saint. Be forewarned that, as in the Vatican, men and women must have their shoulders covered – no tank tops. We were able to get a coverup for Melissa so that she could enjoy the experience, otherwise, she would have had to stay outside.

View from the Main Piazza

Tuscan Countryside fron Assisi

The Square where we had our pre-dinner cocktails.

Can you Believe a Car Drove Down this Alley??? 

Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi (St. Francis). 

Roma Part II

The next day, Melissa, Lorraine and I headed out to tour the Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel and St Peter’s Basilica. We left plenty of time to get to the Metro, and take the A line subway to the Vaticano stop. Our concerns mounted as we descended into the depths of the many platforms, and feeling like we were in Dante's famous Descent, the temperature rose to well over 100 degrees F and the crush of people made the heat almost unbearable. The tunnels leading into the platforms were packed. The platforms were packed. The train that arrived was packed. It seemed like only a half dozen people were intending to get off, but the crowd, unlike the Red Sea, would not (or could not) part to let them out. People were yelling and jostlling for position, but the doors had to open and shut at least 10 times as passengers were caught in the doors as they attempted to close. We finally realized we would never make the 10:00 start of our tour, so we scrapped ourt tickets and left the station to search fruitlessly for a cab. Tip for travellers to Rome: it is almost impossible to hail a cab on the street. You must find a taxi stand where the cabs line up to take their fare.

Our tour was 3 hours long and included access through a reserved entranceway circumventing the huge lines that were sweltering in the heat. We passed through captivating sites like Raphael’s Rooms, Gallery of the Maps and Bramante’s Pinecone Courtyard. We visited the Sistine Chapel and wondered at Michelangelo’s “The Creation of Adam” ceiling fresco – considered one of the greatest masterpieces of Western art.

 We found the stories of the organization of the art – 6 panels depicting scenes from the life of Moses along one wall, and six scenes from the life of Christ along the other -interesting explanations that added context to the overwhelming number of tapestries, paintings and sculptures that has made the tour a bucketlist staple for so many people. After, we explored St Peter’s Basilica and saw the famous La Pieta sculpture.

An exhausting day, but well worth it, and I get to put another tick mark on MY bucket list.

Ceiling along the Hall of Maps

The Inside is the Church and the Outside is the World?

The Pinecone - a Symbol of the Papacy
  

Ceiling along the Hall of Maps

Roma! Part One

The ferry from Sifnos to Piraeus (the Greek port for all the ferries) was two hours late and took an extra hour to finish what should have been a 2 hour journey. The result was that were very pressed for time to make it to the airport for our flight to Rome. The original plan was to take the express bus from Piraeus to the airport, but that plan went out the window, as we almost did during the cab ride that followed. Our driver assured us that we would make the flight and made good on his promise. Normally I chat with our drivers, but during this white-knuckle gallop, I did nothing but pray as I watched the speedometer inch north of 175 km/hour. That is over 108 MPH for our friends who don't speak metric.

We arrived safely in Roma and made our way to our guest house Cote Rome, which was very close to the train station (Termini), very reasonable and everything we wanted it to be. I would recommend it to anyone. It had a shared kitchen which was stocked with everything to make a sumptious breakfast, so after an evening meal that we were not too tired to enjoy, and a good night's sleep in our air conditioned room (it was 100 degrees F) outside, we had a hearty breakfast and went out to meet our Sweet Melissa, arriving from Canada. We connected and went to sit outside in a cafe and enjoy getting reconnected, supping cold beer and sampling various anitpasti.

After a siesta, we went to reprise Anticha Roma, a place we had enjoyed years before with Kathy, Lorraine's Mom. That night we had feasted on typical Italian dishes, enjoyed the Vino da Casa, and sung along with the Italians (think O Solo Mio) and laughed till we cried. We arrived to be informed that the electricity was off, and that they could offer us anitipasti, but not a meal;  this was to be the first of several disappointments in Roma. The edge had been taken off our appetite, so we just grabbed a pizza and returned to our guest house to finish the night, anxious to turn in early so that we could meet Geoff, Joce and the g-kids, Mia, Kingston and Cadence the next day.

We all met up and decided to make the hike to the Trevi fountain. The fountain, which was commissioned by Pope Clement XII in 1732, was immortalised in Federico Fellini's 1960 classic film La Dolce Vita, in a scene in which Anita Ekberg waded into its waters in a black evening dress. It attracts about 1,200 visitors an hour, most of who close their eyes, turn and throw a coin into the fountain in the belief that it brings good luck and ensures a return to Rome. You can imagine our disappointment when we turned the corner after our half-hour trek, only to see a bone-dry, shrouded construction project – a 2 million Euro restoration which left us staring at scaffolding and tarps draped over the magnificent statues and sculptures. We really felt we had let the kids down, but they threw their coins into the empty basin anyway, and we bought some postcards with glorious pictures of the fontana at night, and headed off to the Spanish Steps.

The gkids first question was, what's so special and why are they called the “Spanish Steps”? They are special for a number of reasons, one of which is that they are the widest steps in Europe. They were built in 1723-1725 in order to link the the Trinità dei Monti church that was under the patronage of the king of France, with the Spanish square below. The long, triangular Spanish square is named after the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See.

Why are they special? Over the years, the Spanish steps unique design and elegance has made it a popular place for artists, painters and poets who were attracted to the place which inspired them in return. Having so many artists hanging around attracted many beautiful women to the area, hoping to be taken on as models. This in turn, attracted rich Romans and travelers. After a short time, the steps were crowded with people of all kinds of backgrounds. This tradition, of the Spanish Steps as a meeting place, has lived on ever since.
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After a few photo ops on the steps, the kids were ready for their first Italian dinner. With gkids in tow, it is important that the restaurant is in an open area where the kids can play when, inevitably, they finish first and get bored. This one was ideal, for after pasta, Fanta orange drinks, pizza and gelati, the three were able to run around in a pedestrian area within our sight. The ingredients may be mostly the same, but our dinners seemed to have deeper, more piquant flavours than pasta at home. This was all accompanied by a fine bottle of Chianti, selected by son Geoff.
The next day - The Vatican!

Disappointment at the Trevi 

Sifnos Part II

We Watched the Sun Go Down While Sitting Seaside in our Little Taverna,

We say goodbye to Sifnos tomorrow with mixed emotions. We love this island, but we are excited to move on to Rome tomorrow where we will meet Geoffrey, Melissa, Jocelyn, Mia, Kingston and Cadence. We explore Roma for three days together then head off to our farmhouse in Tuscany.

We won't miss the constant wind which blows gustily, slamming doors and rudely removing hats, but we will miss the scenery, the people and the food. I have now played three times here for various groups of people and thoroughly enjoyed each gathering. At each social event, there is, of course, many Mezés (μεζές), the collective name for small dishes or appetizers. Cheeses, dips, small fried vegetables, olives, and of course, Greek wine.

At the restaurants and tavernas, we have enjoyed typical Greek cookery, which relies heavily on olive oil, lemon juice, vegetables, herbs, grains and bread, wine,fish, and various meats, including lamb, poultry, rabbit and pork. Also important are olives, cheese, eggplant (aubergine), zucchini (courgette), and yogurt.

 Our favourites have been:
Sagonaki – a fried soft cheese with a very salty tang,
 Moussaka – kind of a Greek lasagna - eggplant, potato, bechamel sauce, ground beef or lamb all served in a ceramic pot.
Greek Salad – with Sifnos cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, capers and lots of olive oil.
Fried Octopus – traditionally with ouzo! Calamari – fried squid.
Souvlaki – sometimes served as an gyro in a pita.

The Greek wine has been unfailingly good, and inexpensive, with a typical dinner costing usually less than $50.00 including drinks, dessert and tip.

Tomorrow will be an exhausting day – haul our luggage to the ferry, then ferry to Piraeus, bus to Athens airport, fly to Leonardo Da Vinci Airport, train to the Termini in Rome, then find our hotel. It will be worth it, though, because the next day our Sweet Melissa arrives, followed closely the following day by Geoff, Joce and the brood!

Greek Salad

Moussaka

Octopus Drying in the Sun

Gyros

Spanikopita

Saganaki

Our Mountains

Sifnos Part 1

Sifnos has been our favourite Greek island for years, partly because of our host Kostas at Morpheus Pension, partly because of the superb restaurants, partly because of the fabulous people we have made friends with here, but mostly because every single day we are absolutely stunned by the fabulous scenery. Our port town of Kamares is ringed by the mountains of Saint Simeon and Prophet Elias from the North and the mountain ‘Korakes’ from the South. On our first night here this year, Sweet Lorraine remarked that it seemed like a spaceship was hovering over our little valley. The mountains here are so steep, and so dark at night, that the monastery that sits on the very top of the mountain, the monastery that is lit up like a nativity scene at Christmas, appears to float like some giant alien craft in the night sky.

It is somewhat misleading to describe Kamares as a port, although this is exactly what it is and the nerve centre for all ferry traffic to Sifnos, but the idea of a port conjures up images of smelly, industrial areas, and Kamares has one of the nicest beaches on Sifnos. True, when the ferries land, the narrow street that runs down the centre of the town is pulsating with scooters, people pulling suitcases, cars, and yes, huge trucks. All movement often comes to a halt as drivers negotiate the terms of passage – who will back up and pull over a bit so the other can pass. But when the ferry leaves, the restaurants move their tables back out a bit further onto the street and people continue to enjoy a fine meal in a beautiful setting with some of the best sunsets we have seen.

Our view from the balcony

The other side of the balcony

Enjoying Squid at Chrisopiiggi

Hydra

We love Sifnos and keep returning to it – the scenery and the people are the magnets that keep us coming back, but Hydra, pronounced ee-dhr-ah, (yes Janey you were right) is definitely now on our list of favourite Greek islands, and we have been to quite a few: Milos, Sifnos, Naxos, Rhodes, Santorini, Folagandros, Serifos, Lesvos, Faros, Mykonos, and now Hydra. Hydra – no cars allowed! No motorcycles, no scooters. Situated in the Saronic Gulf, the primary mode of transporting goods and materials (and some tourists!) is donkey.

The town itself where we stayed is simply called Hydra Town, and it is a warren of tiny, interconnected lanes made of marble which has been polished over the years by millions of feet so that the cobbles shine with a beautiful translucence. Almost everywhere you go you can look down into the crystalline waters, which show off a pallet of colours of light and deep shining blues as the floor of the sea drops quickly away.

The port of Hydra Town is where the trendy meet the past. Huge yachts compete with water taxis and ferries that seem to vie for any available berth along the crowded pier. The ferries disgorge their passengers and the town buzzes with a rhythm of tourists sidestepping the donkeys to grab a chair and order a coffee or cold drink.

We stayed in Erofili Hotel, a comfortable place nestled up a sidestreet. The owners are very friendly and welcoming and responded immediately to any request or emergency we had. Lorraine lost a diamond earring down the sink, and the owner immediately came to take apart the trap and retrieve the errant stud and returned it to a much relieved Lorraine. It seems that plumbing has been a challenging theme for us, and Erofili was no exception, from problematic toilets to a shower that must have been designed by Rubik, because no matter what you did, one side would not align, and water soaked everything, everytime. The owner is planning to replace all the plumbing in the off-season.

We headed back into the warren of port-side houses, and climbed the steep slopes banking away from the town centre, and we got a totally different view on Hydriot life. Grandmothers chatted in quiet lanes and we wandered by random goats, horses, monestaries,churches and little shacks hewn out of the cliffside. After climbing for over 30 minutes, we were treated to a mountaintop view of all of Hydra, erupting out of the clear blue sea showing off its cloak of lavender, bougainvilla, oleander, and herbs.

 We hiked the coastal road leading 2.5km east from the port to a pebble beach at Mandraki where a ghosttown-like remains of a beach resort Miramare was deserted, but chairs and loungers still adorned the stony beach. Luckily we spotted all the sea-urchins awaiting the unwary swimmer to give them a nasty jab in the foot with their poisonous spines BEFORE we stepped into the water!

Although the island's name is derived from springs known to the Ancient Greeks, it is now almost dry. Today, the island imports its water by boat from the Greek mainland. Many local people store winter rainfall in cisterns beneath their houses, to be used later as drinking water. Most food is also imported as very little is actually grown on Hydra. Between 1941 and 1943, during the Axis occupation of Greece during World War II, there was famine on Hydra. It is estimated that some eight percent of the population died of starvation.

 Hydra is also the Greek home of Canadian musician and poet, Leonard Cohen. On September 27, 1960, six days after his twenty-sixth birthday, Cohen bought a house in Hydra for $1500, using a bequest from his recently deceased grandmother. Cohen later said that it was the smartest decision he ever made. The three-story, ancient whitewashed building, with its five rooms on several levels, was run down and had no electricity, plumbing or running water. Yet it was a private space where he could work, either on the large riled terrace or in his music room on the third floor.

Cohen often performed at the local taverna that was just around the corner from our hotel, and I had the pleasure of playing guitar with another guitarist and a bouzouki player at the taverna. I was informed that the guitar player was sitting in exactly the same spot as where Cohen would sit. The duo insisted that I play a Canadian song so I played "The Weight" under the watchful eye of the owner, who clearly feared his quaint Greek atmosphere was being hi-jacked, but when the final chorus was sung, the audience gave me a rousing round of applause and he appeared to be quite happy.
I returned the next day and an obliging waiter took a picture of me sitting exactly where Leonard Cohen sits when he in Hydra.

On our last night we were treated to the spectacle of a traditional Greek wedding, complete with ancient songs and dances. The hilarious highlight for us was the part where the wedding party carried the nuptial bed onto the dancefloor and the groom ceremoniously turned down the sheets, inviting his bride to join him, whereupon all the bridesmaids hurriedly remade the bed and then carried it away.

We will definitely return to Hydra.It will be interesting to see how our old favourite - Sifnos stacks up to its new competitor for our hearts.

Donkeys and Horses are the Local Taxis on Hydra

The Flora are Beautiful

Preparing the Bridal Bed!!

Playing at Cohen's Taverna with My New Friends

Sitting in Cohen's Spot |(Yes, I am Playing "Suzanne")

Leonard Cohen Playing in MY Spot

Grexit??

Greece – Planning a Grexit from the EU?

The wind here on Sifnos in Greece is blowing at 50kmph today – is it an ill wind for all of Greece? Greek banks have been closed by the government who feared a potentially fatal run on deposits. The long lineups at ATMs on Saturday night June 27 might have us believing that their fear was justified. We could not find an ATM with any cash left in it. The ATMs have been restocked with cash, but the Greek people cannot withdraw more than 60 Euros a day.

There is a referendum planned for this Sunday, where the Greek populace will vote on accepting the last bailout terms offered by Greece's creditors. To add to the confusion, the bailout offer expired on Wednesday of this week. ??

A no vote would trigger a currency crisis and probably signal Greece's exit from the EU. Whether the Euro would continue to be the currency or the old drachma be reinstated is up for debate. Greeks who owe debt in euros but who suddenly earn income in drachmas would be crushed. Another deep recession could be a consequence.

There are reports of grocery stores running out of food as people stockpile for the crisis. Our B and Bs and hotels are begging us to pay with cash as they cannot get any. Employees and suppliers who are normally paid in cash are suffering from the lack of currency in circulation. Unemployment, which is already at 25.6%, is rising and bound to continue to rise. The Greek suicide rate has jumped 35% in a little less than two years.

The Greek economy has shrunk by a quarter in five years, and is further compounded by the daily arrival of refugees from the Middle East and North Africa. What will happen to these unfortunate souls is unclear.

We are OK here on Sifnos. Foreigners can still get money from the ATMs – the restrictions only apply to those holding debit and credit cards issued from Greek banks. Restaurants still continue to serve as usual, and we see little evidence of scarcity in the stores. The Greek people we come into contact with do not, on the surface, appear panicked, but our hearts go out to them just the same.

What will happen on Sunday?

Greeks Line up to Empty the ATMs