Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Santorini Start










Images: Santorini From the Ferry: Dancers!; Santorini Sunset; SL as the Sun Goes Down



I did not want to come to Santorini – let me clarify, I did not want to come back to Santorini.
SL and I came here in Oct 2008, on a cruise for our 35th anniversary. We were here one day, as we and 2000 other passengers waited for the cable car to lift us to Fira, the capital, to jostle along cheek to jowl, through the packed streets to see yet another tourist souvenir shop offering a Spongebob T-Shirt with a picture of Santorini on the back.
This time we did not land at Fira, we landed at Athinios, but even before we got off the ferry the magic had set in.
If Sicily is beautiful, and Paros charming, Santorini is enchanting. As we sailed into the port we looked up to the slices of layer-cake cliffs with multi-coloured striations from magma cooling at different times and temperatures. They were coated with a confectionery topping of tiny white houses hanging on precariously by the stickiness of their icing sugar bases. At night, these houses become Christmas icicle lights twinkling on the sofitt and fascia of the cliff.
Santorini honours “Saint Irene”, but before it was Santorini, it was Kalliste; “The most beautiful one.
We rented a little convertible and drove from Athinios to the ancient city of Akrotiri. After settling in to our hotel, the Kalimera ("Good day" in Greek), we walked into the local town, hearing loud music and what sounded like gunshots all the way in.
Turns out that there was a christening happening that night, and the whole town was invited. There was live music – a bousouki player and a violinist, and the loudest firecrackers you have ever heard. These were not the milquetoast bubble gum pops we have now in Canada; but REAL ordnance – remember Cherry Bombs and Garbage Cans? (and it was 6 and 7 year olds lighting them...)
SL and I watched respectfully from a distance as the party wore on. We were entranced. Anyone was allowed to get up and sing. The musicians did their best to accompany them and to keep straight faces. (I thought of the Beautiful Klaude and me, or "John and JB", playing along with someone who loves to sing, but...) SL and stayed for about 40 minutes, and finally tore ourselves away for our first sunset in Santorini, enchanted.

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